Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Limoux: 'notre maison loin de la maison'


Despite all the fun and excitement of the opportunities to travel around France and wider Europe, we are actually living in a very small yet proud town called Limoux. Tucked away in the south, this little town of 10,000 people is 'our home away from home'...

The view of the Aude river to the west of the town
The town of Limoux is in the Aude department, in the Languedoc-Roussillon region in the south of France. The river Aude runs through the town, which was founded in the 8th century. There isn't a great tourist population here, as the attractions in the town itself are quite limited. Limoux is on a main road though, and is only a 20 minute drive from Carcassonne, and about an hour and a half north of the Pyrenees.

The town of Limoux is known in France for two things: Blanquette and Carnaval.

Blanquette de Limoux is a type of sparkling white wine made only in this area. The story is that the method of making sparkling white wine was actually invented in the Abbey of Saint Hilaire, which is just outside of Limoux, pre-dating the drink that made the region of Champagne famous. Blanquette is served everywhere in Limoux, and is the drink of choice prior to and after a meal, and at any other time of day for that matter. Limouxins are very proud of this drink, which was, fittingly, the first thing we were offered when we arrived in the town.

Carnaval de Limoux is something that we are yet to experience, but have been told (and perhaps warned) about. Carnaval is a three-month festival held from January to March every year, whereby locals, and anyone that wants to join in, dress up with masks that roughly resemble clowns, parade through the Town Square with local bands, and basically work their way through the bars around the Square. This festival occurs three times a day on every Saturday and Sunday throughout the Carnaval period. We aren't quite sure what to expect, but no doubt I will be writing about it in January!

This old Church is hidden
in streets full of apartments
While the town is known to party, it is actually a really pretty little town, where the people are so happy and life seems easy. We have walked pretty much around the entire town; we have found a Church hidden among residential buildings, and another old Church now used as a piano museum. The river is quite pretty; we have spent afternoons just sitting on the water's edge or on the bridge looking at the stunning landscape. The town is surrounded by mountains on one side and vineyards on the other. They say that people only come to Limoux to get to somewhere else, which I guess makes it the perfect place for us to live and explore the area!

Our little slice of French heaven
The house that we live in is more like a 'granny flat' on the property of a bigger house. Most average people in Limoux live in the apartment buildings in and around the town square, with the larger houses being more on the outskirts of the town. But for some reason there is a big house with a large garden one street back from the apartment buildings, about 200m walk from the middle of town, and on one side of their garden is a two-story building, which we are fortunate enough to live in. It seems to be quite new, and is nice and cosy.

Inside is very basic, but somehow it is just what you would imagine a little French house to be like. One wall is completely exposed rock and cement, while the other walls are very thick and solid as well. Downstairs consists of a living area with a heater at one end, and a small kitchenette at the other end, with a sink, stove top, microwave and a small bar fridge.

A set of open wooden stairs lead upstairs, which is all open-plan and has our bed, shower and toilet. The floor is wooden, and a heater keeps the whole area warm. We have our own washing machine and dryer in a little shed connected to the house, which makes us very self-sufficient here.

We are really enjoying living in this small town. We feel as though we are experiencing first-hand the true way of life of France, not just the tourist version. The people here have embraced us both as they are very supportive of the town's football team; they are as equally happy to have us here as we are to be here.

The old bridge crossing the Aude was built in the 11th century,
while the Church on the left, St Martin's, was built in 1263.

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