If there is one thing the French do very well, it is fresh
food. You can't walk down a street and not come across a boulangerie where
bread is baked fresh each day, or a charcuterie that will slice anything for
you on the spot.
So a trip to the weekly fresh produce markets held in town
are a must to get the full French living experience.
I had ventured into the markets on occasion during our first
few months here, but have only just recently gained a real appreciation for the people,
produce and overall experience of going to the markets each Friday.
Limoux is busy place on Fridays, when the markets come to town |
Today, like most recent Fridays, I set my alarm and rolled
out of bed with the intention of heading into the markets to buy fresh eggs.
There is something about the eggs that I get from the
markets; I can tell that the chickens were happy when they laid them, as they
have a very natural flavour about them. I struggle now to eat the eggs that we
have to buy when we run out of markets eggs, and often opt for an alternative
meal.
The weather today is less than ideal outdoor shopping
weather, with a light drizzle of rain putting a dampener on things. But past
experience tells me that won't stop the locals from their weekly shop, with the
rain being nothing that an umbrella can't stop.
Equipped with my shopping bag and empty egg cartons, I
headed out for the short stroll to the markets, which seem to draw everyone
from nearby villages to Limoux, as any spot where a car can fit (and even some
where one can't) has been filled.
I have come across a short-cut through some small back
streets that will take me straight to the fresh produce section of the markets.
Walking toward the markets, I bypass the meat and seafood
section, which is housed in a large room on the ground floor of a building built specifically for this purpose. I
do sometimes wander through, but haven't been able to bring myself to stop long
enough to buy something, as I am quickly confronted by things that I have never
even imagined; the French eat every
part of the animal, and what they can't actually eat, they use to make
something else. It is moments like this I'm glad I can't understand what
the labels on the food mean!
My regular egg stall |
I turn left to head down into the main street of the produce
market. It seems to fill and spill out of a town hall type building, with the
small streets surrounding it coming alive with colour and activity. There are
all types of fruit and vegetables packed on tables, with the van that they were
delivered in holding more ready for sale.
Today I'm not buying any fruit or veg, as I had done our
grocery shopping earlier in the week and we still had enough. But I have often
bought tiny mandarins by the bag, sweet strawberries by the punnet, and fresh
pumpkin cut to the size I desire.
A stall selling fresh flowering plants brings a smile to my
face, as the flowers provide a nice lift on the dreary day.
I walk into the building and head for my regular egg stall. A lovely
old couple run this small stall, which sells three different sized eggs. I
point to the medium size while pulling out my egg cartons, indicating that I
would like them both filled.
I am spoken to in French, to which I reply 'pardon, no Francais',
however this doesn't seem to make any difference. I gather from her actions that she doesn't want to put the fresh eggs into an old carton, and takes them away from me.
Instead, she fills fresh egg cartons with eggs and presents
them to me with a 'voila'. I pack them safely in my shopping bag, collect my
change and leave with a 'merci, au revoir'.
I like to wander past the other stalls, usually with no
intention to buy but just out of interest. Inside the building there is a large
stall selling various types of olives and dried fruit, a home-made bread stall,
various types of coffee packaged ready for sale, more fruit and veg, and
another stall selling eggs, but also offering live chickens!
Olives or dried fruit, anyone? |
The pop-up fromagerie |
Leaving the building through another door, I come out into
another street with more fruit and veg. With so many to choose from, I have
received some tips from locals about which stalls offer the best, and which
vendors to avoid.
I often stop to look through the glass of the pop-up
fromagerie in amazement at how many different types of cheese there are. You
can buy it by the (huge) wheel, or get just the right amount cut for you.
A busker plays beautiful music as I head down a street into
the town square to check out the other wares on offer. The square is filled
with stalls selling anything and everything you could need; from material by
the roll, to thick winter clothing and shoes; hand-made trinkets to beads of
every colour and shape to make your own jewellery; and every type of kitchen
utensil you could need, to fake, but very colourful, flowers.
The fake flowers provide some colour to the markets |
...as do the scarves in any colour you could want |
I enjoy looking at a stall that is selling scarves of every
colour, and another that sells hand-made cards, which I'm amused to see include
some that say 'Happy Birthday'...in English.
Once a month there are also markets that pop up on another
street nearby, which include even more clothes and fresh produce, but also an
opportunity to buy fresh herbs and spices, and other food items like cooked
chickens from a rotisserie and fresh, hot paella by the tub.
Content with my eggs, which I know I will enjoy for the next
few days, I head home, wandering back through the fresh produce markets and
down the small back streets toward our house.
The Friday markets seem to be must for the locals, and have
become a weekly ritual for me. They are a great French experience that brings a
smile to my face and puts a spring in my step for the rest of the day.
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