The Boulangerie Adventures

With the famous 'bread' culture in France, there seems to be a boulangerie within walking distance of every resident. We were quick to find ours, and have become regular customers, making the short walk most mornings for our fresh baguette.

But the trip to the boulangerie has become more than a necessity to buy our bread; it is our daily ritual, a treat for the senses, and a linguistic challenge.

Daily ritual

Bread is served with every meal in France. When dining out, a basket of bread is provided to accompany the meal. The bread becomes part of the meal, often used instead of cutlery with some dishes.

And the bread must be bought fresh every day. There is something about the bread here; not only is it so delicious, but it is so fresh, and if it's not eaten that day and is left to sit overnight, it turns rock-hard and becomes inedible.

So every morning the bakeries become a hive of activity as everyone buys their bread for the day. I have seen a steady stream of people flow in and out of a bakery, leaving with a baguette in hand; some days we are three or four deep in line to buy a baguette; and often, if we sleep in, we miss out altogether.

We usually buy a baguette or two each morning, depending on what we have planned for the day. Sometimes (I admit, it's more often than not) I will buy a croissant as well.

We have become such popular regulars that our friendly bakery lady often pops a treat in the bag for us as well, gratuit! I've enjoyed chocolatines, cheese croissants, chocolate tarts, éclairs, donuts, you name it; all free and delicious.

Treat for the senses

I walk through the doors of our boulangerie and immediately breathe in the smell of fresh bread. Such an amazingly delicious smell, made even more appetising when we know how good the fresh bread tastes here. Racks of various types of breads are stacked up behind the counter: baguette, flute, ficelle...

My eyes are spoilt by the sight of the sugar-covered cakes and treats that sit in the showcase. The selection on offer differs almost daily, with my temptation being testing just as often by the colours and textures.

My mouth waters, as if I can taste the sugary goodness of each of the treats. From overflowing apple or chocolate tarts to éclairs of varying flavour, and cream-filled long donuts to custard pie! In our early months I made it my mission to try all of the options available, and enjoyed every bite.

A linguistic challenge

When we walk in the door we are instantly greeted by the smiling face of the small, old French lady who is always so pleased to see us. She knows who we are, and that we don't speak a lick of French, but that doesn't stop her from attempting a two-way conversation with us, usually about the weather that day.

I know this because I can pick up some words; when it was snowing I recognised the word 'blanc', which means white, and when the sun came out the next day, I recognised 'soleil'. If I don't register any recognition of what she is saying, she opens the newspaper on the counter and shows me the weather page.

Sometimes, though, the conversation goes into other topics.

One Monday I wandered in for our daily purchase and found our friendly bakery lady to be in high spirits and very excited to see me. As usual she spoke at me in French, and didn't seem to care that I was wearing my confusion on my face.

She didn't stop to try to clarify, just continued to talk. Toward the end of her conversation I picked out two words among the speed-talk: 'Limoux treize'. All of a sudden I understood her whole conversation; Marty's team, the Limoux Grizzlies (also called the Limoux treize, for the thirteen players on a rugby league team), had won a big game the day before, and she was very happy and excited.

On another occasion I went into the bakery around midday, after Marty had been in early in the morning before going to his football game.

Surprised to see me, our bakery lady began speaking at me and, knowing I didn't understand, pointed to the rings on her wedding-ring finger and then at a baguette. I understood that she was telling me that Marty had already been in earlier in the day to purchase his baguette.

As we slowly learn more French we are excited to practice it at the boulangerie. However for every little bit extra we say, we are met with even more French, as if we are supposed to understand the whole conversation!

Our local boulangerie has become a very much-loved part of our life in Limoux, as much for the experience as for the amazing food we get from there. We enjoy seeing our friendly boulangerie lady daily, and from the welcome we get when we walk in the door, she is as equally pleased to see us.